Surfboard Shape Explanation: What Are the Different Types of Surfboards?

For the first time, I have been playing around with different types of surfboard shapes.

As a Southern California native, I used to grab whatever white squash tail thruster board everyone else was using and would ride that.

I figured half the fun of being a surfer is to look cool, right? Early on in my surfing journey, I had two surfboards: a shortboard and a longboard.

Yet perhaps surfing is similar to cooking. The more you experiment, the more you start noticing flavors and spices that were previously undetected. Likewise, with enough experience surfing, soon I began to notice the distinct differences in surfboard “flavors”.

As my surfing and I have matured, I have begun experimenting with a variety of surfboard shapes, lengths, and fin setups.

I now experiment with surfing single-fin nose-riders, diamond-tailed twins, pin-tail mids. Before we go any further, you’re probably wondering, “What does all this surf jargon mean?” So let’s get into it.

Learning about the differences in surfboards

There is a whole lot of detail that can be learned about the intricacies of surfboard style. In actuality, technical engineering, hydrodynamics, and plain-old physics are behind many of the nuances of high-performance surfboards (channels, concaves, fin design, etc.).

Surfboard-style information can get very granular. Even some professional or highly experienced surfers do not fully understand.

Yet it is essential to note that the most popular surfboard shapes truly are intuitive.

In this blog, we will reveal what all this surfboard-shaped jargon means. Also, what to consider when buying a board and what type of surfboards are best for beginners.

Understanding surfboard design: five elements to consider

First, to understand surfboard design, we have to look at five major components which all work together simultaneously for our surfing pleasure and success:

1. The volume of your surfboard
2. Surfboard rocker
3. The nose shape of your board
4. Tail shape of your board
5. Surfboard fin setup

Volume, aka length X width X thickness

First, and arguably the most important, is the length of the surfboard. Surfboard dimensions can be found along the stringer (the middle line running from the nose to the tail) on almost every surfboard.

Categorized by length, there are longboards (8’0 ft. plus), fun boards and mid-lengths (6’0 ft. plus), and shortboards and fishes (under 6’0 ft.) Oh yeah, and guns (10’0 ft. plus) are used by professional big-wave surfers.

The width of a surfboard is the distance across the surfboard’s deck, from one rail to the other. The width changes as we move from the nose toward the tail. Typically the widest part of a surfboard is near, or just above or behind, the midpoint of the board.

The thickness of a surfboard is measured at its thickest part. Note that it tapers off in varying degrees at all of the “edges” of the surfboard — the nose, tail, and rails.

Together, the height, width, and thickness multiplied together make up the volume of the surfboard. Volume has been a catchy buzzword in surfing culture as a more accurate picture of how to size a surfboard.

Basically, knowing the volume of a board answers a simple question: how much will this board float me? The more you weigh, the more volume a surfboard needs (via length, width, and/or thickness) to have to keep you above the water.

For beginner surfers, more volume is better

At Bodhi Surf + Yoga, we use 8 ft. plus NSP and Torq surfboards, which are designed with high volume in mind.

The reason is that the more you and your board are floating on top of the water (as opposed to submerged under the water), the easier it is to paddle and catch a lot of waves. This is a necessary step to improving your surfing. It’s as simple as that.

This is why it is generally recommended for beginners to start with a longboard or funboard — they have more volume.

Kids, on the other hand, can start on a shorter board because they weigh less. Teaching kids to surf is much easier since they are lighter, and the board generally floats higher out of the water.

Surfboard rocker

The rocker measures how much your surfboard looks like a banana. Technical, right? Surfboards aren’t flat planks of wood but have some rocker or curve of the nose and tail upwards. If you lay any surfboard flat on the ground (without fins), you will notice that the nose curves up more than the tail.

Simply put, more nose rocker is meant for steeper, hollower waves, while less rocker, or “flat rocker,” is suitable for smaller, softer, or mushier waves.

On the same wave, a board with a curvier rocker is going to travel a lot slower than a board with a flat rocker. That being said, in a barreling wave, professional surfers often attempt to slow themselves with more rocker and even use their hands and lower body to stay in the barrel longer.

If you are a beginner surfer, there should be some nose rocker to help prevent nose-diving or perling, but not so much that you can’t effortlessly glide down the line (staying on the face of the wave as it breaks either left or right).

Similarly, a flat-tail rocker will allow for more speed down the line and an easier time catching waves. If your goal is to take off late into steep waves, aim for a bit more nose and tail rocker.

The surfboard’s “nose.”

The nose of the surfboard is the top foot or so of the board and has a significant impact on the “feel” of the board when you are paddling it.

Often, I joke with my surf students that “surfing” should actually be called “paddling” since we spend almost 90% of our time in the ocean just paddling around, looking for or trying to catch waves.

Generally speaking, a broader and rounder nose will give a surfboard more volume, making it more buoyant in the water, lifting the surfer higher, and making it easier to paddle for waves. A wider nose will increase your ability to catch waves!

A narrower nose will do the opposite but is preferred for making more critical turns in the “pocket” or steepest part of the wave. Because a narrow nose has less volume, it’s harder to paddle for and catch waves.

But with surfboard shapes, there is always a tradeoff. The less volume your surfboard has, the easier it is to duck dive or bring the entire board deep to bypass the oncoming whitewater wave.

How the shape of the surfboard tail affects performance

The surfboard’s tail, on the other hand, is crucially important for riding down the face of a wave. The wider and flatter a tail is, the faster the board will glide down the line, left or right.

It will also give the board a “looser” feel. The narrower and pointier the tail is, the more control the surfer will feel when making turns or dropping into a steep or powerful wave, as the narrow tail digs into the wave face and “holds” the board steady.

There are a variety of surfboard tail shapes, but here are some of the most popular.

Pintail surfboards

The pin tail is very narrow and pointed. This provides precision and control in big waves and is a common tail shape used on “guns” or big waveboards.

Round tail surfboards

A round tail is a highly maneuverable shape that turns smoothly and slowly. It is suitable for making long, arcing turns. Rounded pins combine stylish turns and control in steep or hollow waves.

Squash tail surfboards

A squash tail is found on many high-performance shortboards because it allows for fast, snappy turns in the “pocket” or the steepest and most critical section of the wave. They have a good amount of surface area, making them work well for small to medium-sized waves.

Swallowtail surfboards

Swallow tails are wider at the end of the board and provide a bit more volume, which helps in small surf. Because of its shape, each point of the swallow functions as a little pin tail. This makes it an excellent tail shape for steep waves as well.

Fishtail surfboards

A fishtail is an iconic and stylish decision, which consists of a swallow-esque cut but with a much deeper and broader “v” in the middle. The exaggerated “v” elongates the rails of the board, which increases down-the-line speed, and is combined with two points to keep the board steady in larger waves as well.

Square tail surfboards

Wide square tails are great for small waves because their surface area makes planning across the face of small or mushy waves easy. A big square tail will also increase stability.

How the amount of fins a surfboard has affects the performance

Many common surfboard shapes already have a designated amount of fins set according to that board’s design purpose.

There are four common surfboard fin setups:

Single fin surfboards

This setup is often found on longboards and nose-riders since it offers down-the-line speed and a large pivot point for slow, smooth turns.

Fewer fins equate to less drag, so single fins can be fast and provide a lot of “hold” in steep, hollow waves. Single fins will feel less “stable” than a three-fin setup.

Twin fin surfboards

Twin fins are more maneuverable and faster than other fin setups. The downside is a faster, “looser” feel, making precision-like control difficult.

Twin fin setups are commonly found on “fishes” — fishtail surfboards.

Thruster surfboards

A three-fin surfboard board, called a thruster, provides stability and maneuverability. Thrusters are the most popular design for high-performance professionals and beginners just learning to stand up on their surfboards.

Three fins make more drag than one or two, making them a little slower down the line, but they allow the surfer to make exact turns and tricks on the wave.

Quad surfboards

In a quad setup, the center fin is removed, similar to a twin, but two more additional fins are added to each side for extra control.

Quads are known for generating a lot of speed, with a little more control than a twin-fin setup, making them ideal for fast, powerful waves.

Unique surfboard shapes and honorable mentions

The wide variety of surfboard shapes is influenced by a surfboard’s desired level of performance combined with the skill level of an individual surfer.

But surf culture isn’t all about maximizing the number of turns you can do on a wave. Surfing is also about style, flow, feel, and fun. Surfboard designs are also about creativity, history, or sheer experimentation.

Let’s dive into some unique surfboard shapes and honorable mentions.

Asymmetrical surfboards

Recently, surfboard shapers have been exploring the idea of tail designs and fin setups that aren’t symmetrical.

The reason for this is that a surfer has a stance (regular or goofy) that doesn’t change. What does change, however, is the direction the surfer is going down the line on a wave (frontside or backside).

An asymmetrical design is meant for a particular surfer to go in a particular direction every time since the way a surfer turns the front differs from the backside.

Mini Simmons surfboards

This fun and playful shape is a small wave board, which makes generating speed even on the most minor days easy. This shape is essentially a longboard cut in half, with a flat rocker and a wide square tail. It’s swift and easy to turn.

Finless surfboards

A finless board is precisely what its name describes: it has no fins. The original Polynesian wooden surfboards, such as the Alaia, didn’t have fins and were the precursor to the modern surfboard.

The best way to really learn the function of fins is to try a surfboard without fins! Or to have fun slipping and sliding down the wave face. Ride it lying down or standing and practice 360 sliding turns.

Groveller surfboards

A “groveller” is another name for a small wave surfboard. It is usually short, fat, and hides a lot of volume. The nose and tail are wider than a traditional shortboard, yet it is short enough to practice turns and maneuvers.

Guns and step-up surfboards

Guns are big-wave surfboards professionals use to paddle into large and fast-moving waves.

Step-ups are shortboards that are longer than the standard shortboard a surfer uses. They are useful to paddle faster and match the speed of a larger, quick-traveling wave.

Because big waves travel faster than small waves, to catch them, surfers need longer boards. These types of boards are helpful when surfing waves over 6’0 ft.

Mid-lengths, funboards, and eggs

These boards are longer than shortboards and shorter than longboards. Hence, they are in the “mid” range. Surfers aren’t always the most creative.

Funboards are meant for having fun since they provide the best of both worlds: more volume for ease of catching waves, but also maneuverability.

Eggs are a type of funboard with a distinctive oval shape and a broader nose, making it easier to catch waves.

Nose-riders and logs

These are a type of longboard typically over 9’0 ft. with a single fin and a wide concave nose meant for walking to the nose of the board and “hanging ten” or placing the feet at the tip of the nose.

Nose-riding is a stylish and advanced skill for those progressing in their longboarding skills.

Soft tops surfboards and foamies

Soft tops or “foamies” refer to the construction or material of the surfboard. Modern high-performance surfboards are made with an inner foam core and a hard layer of polyurethane resin or epoxy resin, reinforced typically with fiberglass.

Soft tops have the same inner foam core but lack the hard outer resin. They often use soft, cheap plastics and foams, which are easily mass-produced and result in a board that is less performance-y than polyurethane or epoxy boards.

Part of the reason for this is that they have too much flex and can break easily in “heavy” or steep waves. Soft tops are suitable surfboards for beginners because they are lightweight, less fragile than a traditional board, and have a softer exterior, making them somewhat safer when learning to surf.

Foamies can be found in a variety of lengths, shapes, and fin setups and have also been showcased in some of the biggest, most powerful surf in the world. There’s no shame in riding a foamie!

Stand-up paddle boards

Stand-up paddle boards (SUPs) come in many shapes and sizes. Some are designed specifically for surfing. These boards generally have a lot more volume, so you can paddle while standing tall on the board, and as a result, are much heavier than a regular surfboard.

Are you using the right type of surfboard?

It’s good practice to be self-aware about your skill level as well as your gear and the conditions before going surfing.

Most surfers check the surf conditions before deciding which surfboard to use on any given day. A surfboard with more volume is better suited for smaller waves.

But surfing can be dangerous, so remember to check the surf conditions to determine wave size. Conversely, ask the locals if it’s safe for beginners before paddling out into the lineup.

No matter the board, as a beginner, it is essential to surf away from other surfers and maintain control of your equipment at all times to avoid injuring others.

Soft top surfboards are generally softer than polyurethane boards but not always lighter and can still cause serious injury to yourself or others.

Remember to adhere to best practices in the surf: always wear your leash and respect surf etiquette. A reputable surf school should always teach proper surf etiquette, how to control the board in the white water, and how to manage the board during oncoming waves. Never ditch a surfboard when a wave approaches, as this can cause harm to other surfers and result in a broken leash.

Lastly, a surfboard works as a flotation device if you are ever in trouble, but leashes can break, so be sure to master some simple bodysurfing skills before paddling out into breaking waves on a surfboard.

What type of surfboards does Bodhi Surf + Yoga use?

At Bodhi Surf + Yoga, we use soft and hard surfboards ranging from under 6’0 ft. up to 10’0 ft. We aim to fit the surfboard to the surfer, typically matching the surfer’s weight, height, and experience to the correct board.

For beginners, there’s no such thing as a board that is “too big,” but definitely one that is “too small.”

Our soft top quiver is a combination of NSP boards such as the “P2 Soft Surf Wide”, “Longboard”, and the “Teacher’s Pet”. As for the hard-top quiver, it consists of a mix of locally shaped boards and Torq boards such as the mid-lengths “V+” and “Mod Fun”.

Our newest addition to the Bodhi Surf + Yoga quiver is an 8’2 ft. board shaped by local shaper Garro Surfboards.

The best surfboard for a beginner surfer: it’s not what you think

As I mentioned at the beginning of this post, when I started surfing, I had two boards — a longboard and a shortboard, for five years.

Next, I had a long, a short, and a fish for five more years.

It wasn’t until I’d been surfing for over a decade that I finally began playing with different surfboard design elements.

For some, the surfboard is their surfing identity, but for others, it’s simply a means to catch waves, leaving the waves caught to do all the talking.

Finding the right board for you may take a couple of tries and perhaps even a little ego-check. On the other hand, you can also buy the board you want to be able to surf and then practice every day ‘til you get it.

What’s important is that you get a surfboard that matches your surfing goals, whatever they may be. If you have more than one surf goal — well, that’s where a quiver comes in handy.

A surfboard quiver

A quiver is a set of boards that a surfer owns, which are typically designed for different wave types, conditions, or surfing abilities.

The best way to grow your quiver is to buy used boards or grab an old board from a friend. Borrowing a friend’s board will also help expand your board knowledge and help you decide what you like and don’t like in a surfboard.

Good surfboards aren’t cheap. Another strategy is to find a surfboard that works for various surf conditions.

The idea of only having one board, or a “one-board-quiver,” isn’t new. In my opinion, it is an under-appreciated way to confront the sometimes overly materialistic world of surfing.

I won’t tell you that every beginner should start on a longboard. Still, I will say that every beginner should spend a significant amount of time in the ocean — whether bodysurfing, surfing whitewater, or paddling the lineup to gain strength.

Because, in the end, it’s not the surfboard that makes you a better surfer — it’s time in the mother ocean.